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Hello! I'm Suzannah, a serious DIYer and mom of two little ones. Follow along with my DIY fixer upper house renovations, sewing and crafty projects, real food recipes, and de-stressing goals.
I believe you can love your home just the way it is, AND have the power to design and make big changes to make it better.
I'm also the author of DIY Wardrobe Makeovers!

Simplicity 1913
Showing posts with label Simplicity 1913. Show all posts

4.29.2014

My first ever, a totally new project - art-inspired crop top and easy conversion tutorial!

Getting a little bold and crazy with this one! This tutorial (actually, there are two tutorials in this post!) is totally personalizable so if you've been slightly interested in the crop top trend but not sure how to try it, I can help!!

Yes, I said crop top. The term definitely still has a not-so-great connotation for me (80's workout tapes? Early Britney Spears?) but it's coming back with class and I'm always up for a challenge, so figured making my own was a great low-risk way to try! (An alternate name for this post: Crop tops: fun 2013/2014 trend, or: How to Confuse Your Husband with Your Sewing Project. I'll tell you why.)

This post includes a tutorial on 1) how to make your own crop top from almost any dress pattern, and 2) how to make a nice quality neck facing for said crop top. (Like my peplum top-from-any-dress-pattern post, they're easy and work for almost any pattern!) This project was super simple and took me about 45 minutes of sewing time, seriously!!, and not too long cutting time. Follow along for some great pics of the cutting process, and a look inside how a neck facing works!

Art-inspired looks


This project is inspired by a couple of things, really. I was flipping through my InStyle the other weekend and saw this piece, "You Can Do: Art-Inspired"--one fashion director's take on bold, watercolor and paint printed clothes and accessories for spring.

They even recommended Spoonflower for finding a super cool, unique pattern! Spoonflower is pretty dang cool. (See red circle below:)


Something about the rest of the ideas I'd seen while flipping through, or maybe something about the edgy, trendy, bold art-inspired clothes, gave me the idea for a crop top. I had some super cool watercolor-ey sateen fabric from Spoonflower (they sent it to me as an option for a project in my book) that I hadn't used yet, hadn't had a flash of inspiration for dress-wise, and I had been thinking about trying a crop top of a bright floral or something. But the two just clicked! Bright print + crop top!!

But which pattern to use? A tummy-baring top is daring enough, so I thought a simple line would be plenty dramatic. Crop tops have been around a lot this year and last--even the big pattern companies are starting to catch on (Simplicity 1371, see?), but I didn't want anything this complex.

Something simple, like this...
Source

Or this...
Source

Those are super simple, classic, fit-n-flare type crew-neck tailored pattern shapes, just like my favorite versatile dress patterns (Simplicity 1873, Simplicity 1913, and Simplicity 2444).

How to make a crop top from a dress pattern!


So here goes. A super simple tutorial for how to make a cute, fitted crop top out of a basic darted bodice dress pattern! (I used Simplicity 1873.)

Depending on the length you want your crop top, you may want to shorten the pattern piece a little. If you use a basic fit-n-flare darted bodice pattern, it probably has a natural waist, so if you cut it off at the bottom but give it a 1.5" hem instead of attaching a skirt with a 5/8" seam allowance, it will hit 7/8" above your waist. That's a pretty good place for it to stop, but if you want to go a little shorter, here's how.

Using the lengthen/shorten line as a guide, since it is straight across the bodice and will match on both front and back pieces...

Fold the pattern piece up 1/2" or 1", making the fold parallel to the lengthen/shorten line.

Do this on both the front and back bodice pieces.

Cut out the bodice as usual, otherwise, except: do not mark the darts at the waist. (You can make a top that pulls over the head if it has enough wearing ease, if you don't sew the waist darts and leave it with a boxy line at the bottom edge.)

Cut sleeves. (I used the sleeves from Simplicity 2444.)

So simple, right?! This top doesn't have to be lined or have a zipper, if you cut it a little on the looser side/size, or if you use a stretchy fabric. No-zipper projects are so fast!!

You will need:
  • 1 bodice front (up to 1" shorter than pattern)
  • 1 bodice back (up to 1" shorter than pattern)
  • 2 sleeves
And, as I'll show in part 2 of this tutorial...
  • 1 front neck facing (fabric)
  • 1 front neck facing (fusible interfacing)
  • 2 back neck facing (fabric)
  • 2 back neck facing (fusible interfacing)


And, how to make a neck facing:


The second tutorial for this top is how to make a neck facing for your simple cropped bodice, because you're not using a lining like your pattern may call for. Whenever I make my favorite dress patterns into dress bodices, I use a full lining for the bodice, and so I don't need a facing. But facings are great for unlined items like tailored or summery dresses, or this simple lightweight top!

To cut out your facing, use the bodice pattern pieces you've already cut as a pattern for the shape, laying the approximate size facing pieces on top. In this pic I'm cutting out the left and right back neck facing pieces.

Measure using a hem gauge and draft a piece approximately 2-3" wide from the neck edge of the main bodice piece.

Cut matching pieces of fusible interfacing, using your facing as a pattern.

Iron the fabric and interfacing pieces together.

Sew them right sides together at the side seams (and center back seam, if you're going zipper-less like I did). To attach to the bodice, sew right sides together around the neck edge.  

Snip the seam allowance, as you would with a lining and outer fabric at the neck edge, and understich as you would with a lining.

As you can see, I also pinked the edges of my facing, and sewed it through from the outside on the shoulder seams and center back seam to secure it. (Ideally you'd do this with invisible stitches by hand.)


Art-inspired, DIY crop top


And there you have it! The final result of the pattern modification tutorial and simple neck facing: an unlined, zipper-less, slightly boxy crop top!

Try it at home!!

6 comments

1.03.2014

Navy with teal lace, texture-blocked dress

I designed this dress ages ago, but finally finished it over the holiday. This amazing bright teal lace, plus some of my fave navy cotton twill (I got like 6+ yards of it years ago and have been slowly using it in pieces), in a colorblock/fabric-blog/texture-block dress. Panels of lace down the center front and back panels of the bodice (anchored in the princess seams), plus a panel hand-sewn down the front.

I used Simplicity 1913, which I've used before even with some piecing, but I've never done a contrast panel with the center front and back, though it's so easy to do with a pattern like this with the princess seams.
I got this incredible emerald/teal chemical lace fabric c/o WholePort, but it's so heavy it didn't really make sense to make an entire dress or skirt out of it. I cut the center front and back panels of the base fabric (navy teal), the lining fabric (navy lightweight cotton, not visible in these pics), AND the teal lace (see my Sewing Circle post on how to sew on lace and some lining options).

I sewed the front and back panel pieces as one with the navy twill, so the lace edges are sewn into the seams and zipper. I matched the centers of the lace in the front panel, but didn't space it out perfectly once the seam allowances were in. Oh, well! Maybe I'll belt it to distract! ;)

On the skirt I tacked the lace down very carefully with relatively methodical hand-stitching in teal thread. You can't see it from the outside at all. Then I hid the top and bottom edges in the seam and hem.

It was fun!! And I love manipulating simple patterns to get a totally different look from the envelope picture, with the same structure.

 I highly recommend it!, and thanks again to WholePort for the lace!
13 comments

6.19.2013

The little white dress--eyelet lace and details

I have always loved white sundresses... I had a bit of a collection in college and grad school when I bought cheap clothes and pranced around in them in the summers with chunky wedges or Rainbow flipflops. I still love them! Although now I guess I opt for slightly less bare, although still summery, sundress-ey options.

So I absolutely love this white cotton eyelet inset panel/pieced dress Kendi wore... this one is no longer available, not even sure what brand it was, but I love the idea!

So I made my own version. I had some white cotton eyelet in a funny-shaped piece, think it was probably something my mom gave me after she used it for something specific. But it's much more my taste! I love the pure white and graphic shapes.

I wanted to do some similar piecing with it, and I didn't have much fabric. So I used Simplicity 1913, just a basic princess seam bodice pattern, and cut the side pieces of the eyelet and the center front and back of a lightweight pique cotton.

Forgive the wrinkles. ;)

Here it is on. I love the white-on-white with texture!

Love the classic look! It goes with everything, right? The "little black dress" for summer!

11 comments

4.11.2013

How to make a peplum top out of any dress pattern! Two ways...

I know that peplums may not be the first trend you think of when you think "spring"... but I definitely look forward to a chance to wear a top without several layers under and over it to keep warm, and I've really loved wearing the peplum tops I made last summer! (See all my peplum projects here!)

While I'm pretty sure you can find a pattern for a peplum tank these days, I've never used one or needed one. You can easily use any natural waist dress pattern and add a short peplum-length skirt instead of the skirt the pattern calls for! And, dress patterns tend to have a better fit than a tank top or blouse pattern, which are usually even looser and hard to fit.

Here's some examples. I've used two methods for converting fave dress patterns to top patterns.

Peplum Top Method 1: Circle Skirt


You don't need a pattern for a circle skirt. There are some great tutorials out there, so check out this or this and cut a 1/2, 3/4, or full circle skirt for your top! The length only needs to be about 8"-10", usually, depending on your height and how long you want the top to be.

Circle skirts are kind of a pain to hem, so for mine I've twice done a lining of self-fabric or coordinating fabric and sew right sides together along the long (outer circle edge) side. Then just sew right sides together on the outer fabric to the bodice, and finish your seam allowance inside.

Circle skirt peplums work well on a fitted top like one of these...

My seersucker princess seam tank and Simplicity 1913


My pleated front bodice from Simplicity 1873


This one actually was a dress first, then a top, made with Simplicity 2444

Peplum Top Method 2: Gathered Skirt


Even easier than a circle skirt is a gathered skirt. Seriously snip along the selvage of your fabric about 8"-10", or whatever length you want, and tear across to the other selvage. Now you have a rectangle approx. 10"x45", for standard fabric, and once you sew the selvages together (at least at the hem, maybe leaving an opening at the top for your zipper) you have a wide tube. Then hem the bottom edge and gather the top edge. Then sew to your bodice the same way you would anything with a gathered skirt or cuff!

I love the look of the gathered peplum with a double peplum (pepla plural? no...) or with a looser top. Here's some examples...

My recent experimentation with a looser peplum top

And some inspirations for future projects! For these double peplum tops, you'd create two peplum tubes, one shorter than the other, then hem... pin together at the top (raw) edge and gather both as one. Then sew to bodice.

Source: pinerly.com via Suzannah on Pinterest
Source: pennypincherfashion.com via Suzannah on Pinterest

Ready for some springy top-sewing?? Anyone do any great peplum inventions lately?!!

9 comments

9.19.2012

New fave peplum tank, before summer's over

I know, I know, it's almost fall... but it's still been in the 80's and 90's here, and I'm not ready for burgundy and corduroy yet. So before summer's over, officially and effectively, I have to share this top with you!

I made this a few weeks ago and have already worn it three times, I like it so much! Would have shared it earlier, but... moving and all... speaking of still living in summer, I haven't read all of my August magazines yet, but my September InStyle will be there when I get to it (--as will the stack of October magazines I just got! Aaack!). And I didn't get quite enough summer yet anyway, so I'm a little in denial that it'll be boot weather soon.

So--my new fave peplum tank, and maybe if I'm lucky I'll get one more wearing out of it before I feel ridiculous walking around in bright blue sleeveless. So, if you remember, I made this top earlier this summer (worn here), using a basic dress pattern and making only the bodice plus a circle skirt peplum. It's so, so cute! I love the simple fabric but it still pulls an outfit together immediately because it's so cheery and fun. So I really wanted another peplum top, but in a different vein...

I had this very plain bright blue quilter's cotton I got at JoAnn on super cheap, just an impulse buy because I liked the color. I normally don't use quilter's cotton for clothing; doesn't lay right or hold up in my experience, but I wanted to play with a pleated front bodice and this plain fabric was perfect. I used Simplicity 1913 again for the front and back bodice pieces (lining), cut the front wider, put in tucks of various--but symmetrical--sizes. Then I added the little circle skirt, and voila!

Close-up!

So thanks for everything, yellow seersucker, but I have a new fave peplum tank. At least for the next week or so of summer. ;)

18 comments

6.01.2012

Springy seersucker peplum tank

Whoops--you may have seen this earlier this week but had to refine and share again!

It might sound like a weird combination, but I'm totally excited about the peplum tank I made over the weekend.  So here's the story.  Inspired by this top from Anthro...

I'm not sure I could pull off the stretch knit in pure white... but I liked the idea a lot!  I'm totally about the peplum trend, but I don't wear dresses all the time... so a peplum on a top seems a lot more practical.

So.  I set about recreating it myself.  Rather than a darted bodice, I wanted it less structured-looking--so I used princess-seamed Simplicity 1913, and cut down the scoop neck.

For the peplum, I cut a circle skirt with no pattern--just a very short skirt!  Same concept as a circle skirt on a dress.

Like I said, I didn't want pure white, but I liked the faint texture of the Anthro ponte knit.  I had some yellow seersucker left over from a bunch of wedding projects (center squares, boutonnieres, and triangle bunting with words), and it was perfect!  I lined it in a nice white cotton.

Here it is!

I debated center back or side, but I ended up putting the zipper in the center back.  I also cut a deeper scoop in the center back--also making it more tank-like and a little more casual.

Yay!  Perfect for early summer!

23 comments

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